North India in 21 days
- Asaf Feldman
- Dec 1
- 4 min read
I just landed in Delhi, this time heading quickly North. True, the pollution in this city is a big part of me running away quickly from the city. I personally can’t stay here and breathe normally, so I went to the Main bazaar and got a ticket to Ladakh where the air is heavenly as opposed to this city. But I did have 24 hours before my flight. So, I simply wandered the streets of the Bazaar and had some Gulab Jamun. You can see it all over the city, so I had to try the sweet ball. Shopping is also good around here as there are lots of exported goods shops that will sell you in private for a very good wholesale price.
It's a 90-minute flight to Ladakh but a very memorable one as you can see the Himalaya and are actually lower than their peaks. I took photos via the plane windows that didn’t really come out well. In Ladakh security was tight. This area is near Kashmir and the 2 borders of China and Pakistan so they army is present and careful. I took the taxi car with everybody but got off in a faraway villa in Leh which was less touristy. Leh is 3000 meters high so be sure to take a Uramox before you arrive. I didn’t and got altitude sickness.
The hosts of the villa were a young Ladakhian family and were very nice. They took care of me all the way while I was sick and got me eggs and tea which was the only thing I could eat for 3 days. Unlike Delhi everything is much tidier here. In the evening I went to the Shanti Stupa and was very impressed by the holy rituals conducted there and the architectural design. It was built by a Japanese Buddist and contains relics of the Buddah. From the grounds of it are also memorable panorama of the Himalaya and Ladakh surroundings.
I woke up in the morning to the sounds of farmers farming hay but looking around the villa I couldn’t see anyone, they were far away but their chants reverberated in the fields. Such simplicity of living was very memorable as since there was no machinery around you could hear the farmer all the way. I then day trekked around Ladakh. I went to Likir monastery and back but didn’t do the full Sham trek to Temisgam since I signed up for Nubra valley.
Nubra Valley trek was amazing as I was coupled with a few youngsters, and we had lots of fun playing cards at night. The Jeep takes you to hot springs all the way on the border of China and Pakistan, the sights are remarkable and unforgettable to this day. The hot springs are fun as at nighttime it gets pretty cold in the northern valley. Expect to see a mixture of landscape in your way comprised of sand, water green mountains, and above all the Himalaya. Unforgettable.
I got back to Leh and the next day headed to Kashmir on the bus. Kashmir is in between two mountain ranges, the Himalaya and Pir Panjal so the beauty here is insurmountable. From the boat you will experience a complete relaxed state and get some of the best air you can breathe. Visit the Floating Gardens, Islands and Vegetable Gardens. Srinigar is also worth a visit old and new. If you are into it, you can take a pony ride in Sonmarg though I didn’t. 2 nights here are enough to completely relax and soak up the famous atmosphere.
From Kashmir go down to the Golden temple, another bucket list experience. In this place I saw the most religious rituals I ever saw anywhere. Tens of thousands of people gather, praying, 24 hours a day. The temple itself has a 5 am ritual in which they read from the Sri Guru, their holy book. Be sure to wake up for this and try to get a close seat inside the Golden part of the temple. This isn’t an easy task. Free food is served here to the masses, but I wouldn’t count on its effect on the digestive system. Better get something else in a Punjabi restaurant.
From there I went to Chandigarh. Visit the Nek Chand rock garden sculpture garden, have some Pizza Hut after a week without American Junk food. And marvel at this European city in the middle of 3rd world India. It is a good rest from the hustle and bustle of introductory India and a European stop, If that is you are a European descendant... The Gurudwara Nada Sahib is also worth your while. Religious gatherings take place over there daily and it’s an impressive architectural feat.
Continue from Punjab to Himachel Pradesh and visit your first hill station. I could stay here for a month, but I recommend a few nights at least here. Dharamshala Is the main city and attraction here although Shimla is the capital of the state. Both are very interesting for a western tourist, or any kind. In Dharmshala I stayed in Bhagsunag though Mcleod Ganj and Dharamkot are also very good options. McLeod is of course home of the Dalai Lama. I got a chance to visit his house and was blessed by him and given a personal red string along with another 100 people waiting in line for just that. Chances are though, he will not be home when you visit so try your luck.
After having the best of times in Dharamkot I headed off to the Yoga capital of the world. Rishikesh is another place you could spend 2 weeks if not more at. After all the Beatles even stayed here and studied Yoga. I went for a less famous 97-year-old yogi that did headstands and tricks that maybe only a 9-year-old child can do. Practiced here every morning for two weeks. The yogi also teaches a stick fighting martial art. I didn’t go for that but heard it was very vicious and interesting.
That’s it for 21 days in India’s North, but in all fairs honesty you can stay here 2 months at least If you have the time. Thanks for listening and see you soon on the trek.



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