Southern Italy

Day 1 – Arrival in Rome

Although our trip was planned around Southern Italy, we decided to land in Rome rather than Naples. The idea was simple: if we were already in Italy, why rush past one of Europe’s great cities without giving it at least a day or two?

We arrived in Rome on Thursday evening and checked into an excellent hotel right on Piazza Barberini – Basilio 55 Rome. The location turned out to be a perfect base: central, elegant, and within easy walking distance of some of Rome’s most iconic sights.

Rome doesn’t wind down at night. Even at 23:00, the city was buzzing with life. After dropping our bags, we headed straight out into the warm evening air, joining locals and visitors alike on the streets.

We wandered through the city at an unhurried pace, making our way to the Trevi Fountain, glowing softly under the night lights, then on to the Pantheon, timeless and quietly magnificent after dark. Without queues or daytime crowds, the experience felt more intimate, almost personal.

Hunger eventually took over, and we did what Rome does best: devoured slices of pizza, standing casually on the street, surrounded by chatter, scooters, and the hum of a city that never really sleeps.

Satisfied and slightly overwhelmed in the best possible way, we made our way back to the hotel, knowing this was only the beginning. Rome had already delivered, and the journey south was still waiting.

Day 2 – Beautiful Rome

The next morning, we set out for a guided walking tour of Rome’s historic squares, running from 10:00 to 13:00. It was an ideal way to deepen our understanding of the city and connect the dots between places we had already seen the night before.

The route took us through Piazza Barberini, past the elegant Spanish Steps, on to the Trevi Fountain, then to the Temple of Hadrian and Piazza di Pietra. From there, we reached the ancient Pantheon, effortlessly impressive with its vast dome and sense of timeless balance, before continuing to the expansive Piazza Navona and finally Campo de’ Fiori.

It was a fascinating and informative tour, rich with historical context and small details that are easy to miss when wandering alone.

From Campo de’ Fiori, we walked to the nearby Museum of Leonardo da Vinci and Archimedes’ Great Machines. The museum turned out to be a real surprise. It displays full-scale reconstructions of machines designed by Archimedes—flying devices, bridges, cannons, armored vehicles resembling early tanks, and many more. Seeing these inventions built at real size made his genius feel tangible rather than theoretical.

After a short lunch break—we opted for a burger restaurant near the market—we decided to cross the river to Trastevere.

In hindsight, this was not our best decision. Arriving in the early afternoon, we quickly discovered that most of the neighborhood’s interesting shops were closed until 17:00. With the narrow streets unusually quiet and shutters firmly down, the atmosphere felt flat rather than charming.

Slightly disappointed, we continued toward St. Peter’s Basilica (Basilica di San Pietro). The plan was ambitious: climb all the way to the top for the famous panoramic view over Rome from the church roof. Unfortunately, we arrived too late—the dome climb closes in the evening. We had to settle for admiring St. Peter’s Square and exploring the breathtaking interior of the basilica itself, which, even without the view, is awe-inspiring in scale and detail.

Practical Tips from the Day

• Visit St. Peter’s Basilica in the morning or early afternoon if you want to climb to the dome.

• Save Trastevere for the evening, when its shops reopen and the area comes alive with young crowds, bars, and restaurants.

• Dress code matters: when visiting the Vatican or St. Peter’s Basilica, carry a scarf or light shawl to cover shoulders and knees, especially if you’re wearing shorts, as I was.

From the Vatican area, we took a taxi to Piazza Venezia, then continued on foot, retracing parts of our morning route. Rome transforms after dark, and streets we had seen in daylight now felt theatrical, illuminated, and full of movement.

We ended the day with dinner at a restaurant near the Spanish Steps, then paused to listen to a live music performance at the foot of the square. Sitting there, surrounded by music, stone staircases, and the steady flow of people, it felt like Rome was putting on a final show just for us.

Tired but deeply satisfied, we returned to the hotel—our legs sore, our heads full, and our affection for Rome firmly sealed.

Day 3 – A Challenging Mountain Ascent

We picked up our rental car early in the morning and drove south to Pietrapertosa, a breathtakingly beautiful village set deep inside the Piccole Dolomiti Lucane National Park.

Here, sharp, jagged rock formations—often called the Lucanian Dolomites—rise dramatically to heights of around 1050 meters. Perched improbably on two opposing peaks are two tiny, picture-perfect villages, seemingly clinging to the cliffs themselves. The setting feels wild, remote, and almost unreal.

Each village is reached by a winding mountain road, and from both of them you can set out on a via ferrata route, demanding, exposed, and deeply rewarding. Connecting the two peaks is one of the area’s most famous attractions: an extraordinarily long zipline, stretching about 1.5 kilometers, suspended nearly 1000 meters above the valley floor, with views that are nothing short of spectacular.

The zipline operates only on weekends in June (and daily in July–August), a restriction designed to protect the endangered black storks that nest between the peaks. It’s a rare and admirable example of tourism adapting to nature rather than the other way around.More details can be found at: https://www.volodellangelo.com/

We had booked in advance a via ferrata climb with an English-speaking guide, a rare commodity in this region. Our guide, Francesco, arrived fully equipped and immediately put us at ease. He provided all the necessary gear and guided us patiently along the route, explaining everything from the geology of the rocks to the local wildlife and the history of the area.

We walked, climbed, and scrambled for about four and a half hours. The route was demanding, both physically and mentally, but incredibly rewarding. By the time we finished, we were tired, proud, and armed with a collection of fantastic photos Francesco had taken of us along the way.

For anyone interested, Francesco can be reached at +39 347 407 0271. We coordinated everything via WhatsApp. He offers private guiding as well as small-group tours and comes highly recommended.

Essential tip: arrive with proper climbing or approach shoes. Regular sneakers are not suitable for this route.

At the end of the climb, back in the village, a small caravan was selling ice-cold beer. We sat with Francesco, clinking glasses of lemon beer, surprisingly refreshing and very welcome after the effort, before saying goodbye.

We had booked an apartment just five minutes’ walk from the end of the route: B&B La Margherita Pietrapertosa. The location couldn’t have been better. We arrived first, parked the car, dropped off our gear, met Francesco there, started the climb from nearby, and finished practically at our doorstep.

The apartment owners, Vincenzo and Margherita, don’t speak English, but they went out of their way to help us with everything. Google Translate became my best friend, and communication, while imperfect, was warm and genuine.

As soon as we arrived—even before starting the via ferrata—Vincenzo took it upon himself to reserve a table for us at the best restaurant in town.

After finishing the climb, showering, and changing clothes, we walked five minutes to the restaurant. It was a true local place, serving refined, chef-driven dishes. No one spoke English, and after a few failed attempts at communication, I simply told the waiter, “Bring whatever you want.”

He returned with a series of small, beautifully presented dishes—delicate, creative, and delicious, though not especially filling. Using Google Translate once again, I asked for another pasta dish. Shortly after, two more outstanding pasta plates arrived, entirely of the chef’s choosing.

It was the perfect end to a demanding day: good food, complete exhaustion, and the quiet satisfaction that only comes after pushing yourself well beyond your comfort zone.

Day 4 – Flying Like a Bird Above the Villages and Onward to Puglia

The day before, we had booked a slot on the Volo dell’Angelo zipline for 9:30 in the morning, the very first flight of the day.

We arrived at the office at 9:15, were weighed, checked in, and officially cleared to fly. We made sure to bring a hat and plenty of water, especially for the walking route on the way back.

From there, we climbed the stairs toward the launch station in Pietrapertosa. Harnesses on, nerves kicking in, a moment of hesitation and then we were airborne.

It is hard to put into words the pure happiness we felt while gliding through the air. The landscape below was spectacular, jagged peaks and deep valleys unfolding beneath us. Despite the height, the experience was not scary at all. It was simply exhilarating.

After landing in Castelmezzano, a shuttle took us to a higher point in the village. From there, we set out on a steep and beautiful walking trail, which took about 45 minutes. The path led us back to the cable station for the return ride to Pietrapertosa.

The flight back was even more impressive. This time there was no fear at all, only enjoyment of the dramatic scenery. To our surprise, once we landed, we discovered that four professional photos had been taken during the ride. We happily bought all of them for just 8 euros.

A shuttle brought us back to the village center, where we picked up the car and drove on toward Alberobello.

We had booked in advance a Segway tour throughhttp://www.allwayspuglia.it/en/

Our guide was Francesco, a friendly and enthusiastic man. Not the same Francesco from the via ferrata, but another one. He owns the company and offers walking tours, golf cart tours, bike tours, and Segway tours. We chose a one-hour Segway tour in English.

Riding the Segway, we first explored the authentic part of Alberobello, where around 600 trulli houses still stand. Francesco explained the ingenious ancient building method, which was designed to avoid paying taxes to the king. A house without a permanent roof was not considered a house and therefore was not taxed. If royal tax collectors approached the area, the farmers would remove a single main beam and the roof would collapse.

During World War II, Jewish families were hidden inside the trulli. In their memory, a beautiful olive tree stands here, bearing a plaque in Hebrew stating that it was donated by Israel.

We then moved on to the touristic section, where about 1000 trulli houses stand side by side, creating a scene that feels almost like a Smurfs village. We passed between the church and the souvenir shops, entered a restored trullo house, and received a detailed explanation of daily life inside the stone cone.

The tour was both educational and enjoyable. Afterward, we spent some time wandering between souvenir shops and stopping for a light lunch.

From there, we continued driving to the baroque town of Martina Franca. We stopped at the tourist information office, picked up a map, and set off to explore the historic center. Unfortunately, everything was closed, and the town felt completely deserted.

Visitor tip: avoid visiting Martina Franca on a Sunday.

In the late afternoon, we drove on to Bari, where we had booked a room in a beautifully renovated apartment hotel. The room was spacious, luxurious, and very comfortable, with especially high ceilings, modern and elegant furniture, a stunning bathroom, and an excellent location close to the historic center. Highly recommended.B&B Gatto Bianco House

We managed to find street parking, a small miracle in itself, and went out to explore the city along the promenade and in the old town.

Bari surprised us. It is a charming seaside city on the Adriatic coast, and in the evening, crowds of locals and visitors filled the narrow streets of the historic center. Near the entrance to the old town, there were countless restaurants, bars, and gelaterias. We wandered along the walls, above the walls, and between the main landmarks before returning to our indulgent room, ready for the next chapter of the journey.

Day 5 – Polignano a Mare, Castellana Caves, the Sassi of Matera, and On to Sorrento

We left Bari in the morning and drove south toward Polignano a Mare. We parked near the statue of Monumento a Domenico Modugno, perfectly placed for exploring the town on foot.

From there, we set out to wander and photograph the town, walking along the beautiful seafront promenade, stopping at every viewpoint and weaving between the stylish shops. The dramatic cliffs plunging into turquoise water fully lived up to the hype, and Polignano felt like a place designed for slow strolling and constant photo stops.

From Polignano, we continued on to the Castellana Caves (Grotte di Castellana). We had booked in advance through the official website for the 11:00 English tour.

Every day at 11:00 and 16:00, there is a two-hour guided tour in English. Visitors descend about 60 meters underground, where the temperature stays around 17 degrees Celsius year-round. The caves are deeply impressive, with a total walking distance of 1.5 kilometers each way, making it a substantial underground journey.

The access road to the caves passes straight through a residential neighborhood. For many years, locals feared the dark opening in the ground. Legends were invented about it being an entrance to hell, and for decades people threw organic waste into the hole. The cave system itself was discovered by accident in 1968, when blasting work in a nearby quarry exposed its vast interior.

From there, we drove on to Matera. We had booked a tuk-tuk guided tour, which turned out to be a great way to navigate the steep and winding streets. Riding through the alleys, the guide explained the story of the Sassi, the ancient cave dwellings that went from being the shame of Italy to becoming the cultural capital of the Basilicata region.

We entered a restored Sassi home, where an audio guide in English explained daily life inside the caves. The conditions were shocking. Farmers refused to leave these dwellings, and the Italian government was eventually forced to relocate them. As late as the 1950s, people were still living here without electricity, sewage, or running water. Child mortality reached 50 percent, and over the course of two decades, the city was gradually evacuated.

After Matera was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and following the filming of The Passion of the Christ starring Mel Gibson, which was shot here, the government recognized the city’s potential and began restoring the cave houses and investing in tourism.

We stopped at the recommended viewpoints, gazed over the city from the terrace near the upper church, explored the intriguing shops, and then continued on toward our accommodation near Sorrento.

Along the way, we looked out over the Bay of Naples at sunset, a view that never gets old.

We stayed for three nights with Luigi at Bed and Breakfast Casa Mazzola. The place was affordable, comfortable, and highly recommended. Luigi shared excellent tips for exploring the area, which would prove invaluable over the next few days.

Below is a faithful first-person English translation and adaptation, written as a continuous 8-day Southern Italy itinerary, keeping every event, detail, and tip, in a Lonely Planet–style narrative, and without using em dashes.

Day 6 – Falling Hard for Naples

Our original plan was to start the day in Naples and continue on to Pompeii, but Naples had other ideas. The heat was intense, the city was intoxicating, and we decided to let Pompeii wait.

We booked a guided walking tour in Hebrew with Lior from 9:30 to 12:30. From the very first steps, it was clear this would be no ordinary city tour. Lior described Naples as a big city with the soul of a small village. He wove history with short literary readings and even connected the city to My Brilliant Friend, one of my favorite book series, which captures the lives of two women growing up in Naples.

We wandered through narrow streets where laundry lines stretched between buildings and grocery baskets were lowered from upper floors so neighbors could pass food up without anyone leaving home. We learned about Neapolitan superstitions and the tradition of “suspended coffee”, where you can still buy a coffee for a stranger at a neighborhood café.

People spilled into the streets to escape the heat, sitting shirtless outside their homes. At one point, a long black car entered the street. Suddenly everyone applauded and shop shutters were lowered halfway. It was a funeral procession, and the street was paying its respects to a woman who had lived or worked there. Most shops were local and non touristy. The people were loud, emotional, sometimes blunt, and strangely familiar. We fell in love with the city.

To cool down, we headed underground to Napoli Sotterranea. The hour and fifteen minute tour led us through ancient tunnels carved by the Romans beneath the city. The guide told Naples’ story through these spaces, from Roman engineering to plagues, World War II bomb shelters, and postwar reconstruction. At 10 euros per person, it was absolutely worth it.

Back on the surface, we continued exploring. Around 3:00 PM, scooters flooded the streets, often carrying three riders without helmets. A mother and two children, or a father and two kids. Apparently, school pickup time, Neapolitan style.

Exhausted and happy, we returned to the car and drove toward Sorrento. On the way, we had a reservation at 8:00 PM at Vista Sky Bar, located on the rooftop of Hotel Mediterraneo. The bar is open only three evenings a week, with great music and a breathtaking sunset view over the Bay of Naples. It was a romantic end to a magical day.

Day 7 – Capri Under a Blazing Sun

This was a very hot day, and it slightly dulled the Capri magic.

We took the 9:30 AM ferry to Capri. Although we had booked in advance, it turned out to be unnecessary, as there were no lines at the ticket office.

Upon arrival, we boarded the famous yellow boat that circles the island. From the water, Capri was stunning. We passed the Scugnizzo statue, the lighthouse, Coral Cave, the White Grotto, sailed under the Natural Arch, admired the Faraglioni rock formations, and finally reached the Blue Grotto.

We had to choose between waiting about an hour in the sun to enter or returning directly to the marina. We decided to wait. The wait was not easy. The boat rocked and the sun was relentless. Eventually, small rowboats arrived to take us inside. Groups of three to four people paid 14 euros each and entered the cave for just a few minutes. The blue color was unreal, hypnotic. The visit was brief, but I was glad we waited.

Instead of returning to the marina, we chose to disembark near the stairs and took a bus to Anacapri. Bus tickets can be purchased everywhere on the island except at the main marina.

In Anacapri, we reached the main square and took the open chairlift up Mount Solaro. With a lemon granita in hand, we enjoyed the view, then headed back down. There is a short walking trail near the café, but the heat convinced us to skip it.

We continued to Villa San Michele. Before the entrance, on the right, a staircase led us to a hidden café behind a door with an intercom. Inside, we found a shaded, romantic spot with an incredible view. We enjoyed iced coffee, cooled off, explored the gardens, and moved on.

A bus took us to Capri town, where we strolled past luxury shops toward the Augustus Gardens. Even though we thought we had already seen every possible viewpoint, this one surprised us. From the gardens, the Faraglioni rocks appeared in full glory. We photographed them endlessly, drank delicious limoncello from a nearby stand, and walked to the funicular down to Marina Grande.

We returned to Sorrento on the 5:30 PM ferry to shower, change, and grab dinner before the evening show.

At 9:00 PM, we attended the Sorrento Musical at Teatro Armida. The folklore performance celebrates 200 years of Neapolitan culture through dance, music, traditional costumes, and familiar songs. We enjoyed it, although it felt more suited to locals than tourists.

Later, we wandered through Sorrento’s lively streets, crowded with tourists, shops, and stalls, before heading back to our room.

Day 8 – The Amalfi Coast and the Path of the Gods

We woke up early to hike the Path of the Gods before the heat set in.

At 7:30 AM, we parked in Nocelle, the upper neighborhood of Positano, paid 6 euros at the meter, laced up our hiking shoes, and set out with plenty of water. The trail runs high above the Amalfi Coast, offering jaw dropping views of the famous road below. The path is clearly marked with colored stripes and includes both easy sections and more challenging ones. Picnic tables along the way make perfect spots for a light snack, if you come prepared.

We hiked for about two hours, took photos from every angle, and returned along the same route to Nocelle. Other hikers continued one way and returned by public transport, a plan that takes six to eight hours. We were very happy to return directly to our car.

Next, we drove to Positano and parked in the lot above the Agip gas station. This is an important tip. Avoid parking at the distant lots at the town entrance unless you enjoy a 30 to 40 minute walk to the beach. We descended through crowded shops, had a delicious lunch at a beachfront restaurant, soaked in the atmosphere, and climbed back to the car.

We continued along the stunning Amalfi Coast road. Due to the extreme heat, we skipped Amalfi town itself and drove on to Ravello. We walked toward Villa Cimbrone, paid a rather expensive entrance fee, reached the terrace overlooking the bay, and treated ourselves to overpriced lemon granita at 5 euros per cup. We wandered briefly through the gardens and returned to the car.

The heat was overwhelming. We decided we needed the sea.

We drove to Maiori, a touristy beach town that reminded us a bit of Eilat. It is packed with hotels, restaurants, beaches, and a long promenade. We checked into our sea view room, changed into swimsuits, and headed straight to the beach. Hotel guests enter for free, while others pay between 15 and 30 euros for a sunbed, depending on location.

The swim instantly cooled us down and dramatically improved our mood. After showering and changing, we drove 15 minutes to Amalfi for dinner.

That evening, June 27, was the religious festival of Amalfi’s patron saint. The main square was packed with worshippers, religious songs filled the air, and a local orchestra accompanied the statue into the cathedral. Fireworks at 11:30 PM brought the celebrations to a dramatic close.

Parking tip for Amalfi. Use the large multi story parking lot outside town. For those arriving from Positano, it is located after Amalfi. A tunnel leads directly from the covered lot into the town center.

We returned to Maiori for our final night.

Day 9 – Goodbye Italy

Flying out of Naples airport is not for the faint hearted. Endless lines, unbearable heat, and rising tempers everywhere. There are only two passport control lines for non EU passports, and families with EU passports often end up there too, since children under 14 cannot use the automatic machines. Flights are constantly delayed, and passengers for the most urgent flights are repeatedly pulled to the front, so the lines barely move.

After an hour delay, we finally took off, leaving behind chaos, heat, and true Neapolitan temperament.

Final tip. Fly into Naples and out of Rome, not the other way around.

It was a perfect trip. I hope you enjoyed reading about it.