Northern Italy in 5 Days: Mountains, Lakes, and Milan

Some trips feel like a checklist of places on a map. Others unfold as a story. This journey was unmistakably the latter, five days in Italy that carried us from dramatic alpine landscapes to serene medieval villages, shimmering lakes, and vibrant cities. A journey of long walks, breathtaking views, quiet moments, and small details that linger long after returning home.

First Night – A Gentle Landing in Malpensa

We flew in the evening, landing in Milan on June 30th, 2024, around 11:00 PM. After a long travel day, we chose comfort and simplicity and for our first night we took the Holiday Inn near Malpensa Airport. The airport’s free shuttle made everything seamless, allowing us to end the day calmly and without effort.

Heading to the Aosta Valley – From City to Alps

The next morning, we picked up our rental car through DoYouItaly and drove north toward the Aosta Valley. Almost immediately, the scenery began to change: mountains closing in, air cooling, and landscapes becoming increasingly dramatic.We stopped in Aosta, a relatively large alpine town with Roman ruins and a relaxed atmosphere. After stocking up on fruit and a light lunch, we continued to the stunning viewpoint of Orrido di Pré-Saint-Didier. The viewing platform hangs above the gorge and offers spectacular views. Nearby is a rope park and a zipline crossing the valley, an experience my daughter bravely took on, while I stayed behind, fully absorbed in the scenery.

When Plans Change and Something Even Better Appears

Our original plan was to visit the Lillaz Waterfalls, but nature had other ideas. A storm the previous night caused road damage, and access to the area was closed. Instead of disappointment, we followed a local recommendation to visit Rutor Falls, a decision that turned out to be a gift.This is a beautiful out-and-back hiking trail, winding through forests, streams, and panoramic viewpoints on the way to the waterfalls. The walk takes about four hours and is both peaceful and rewarding. Unfortunately, we started too late and didn’t reach the final point, but even the portion we completed was deeply satisfying.

Overnight by the River – Pontboset

From there, we drove to the tiny village of Pontboset, where we stayed at Le Moulin Des Aravis, an old mill perched above the river. The constant sound of flowing water added to the serenity. Our host was warm and welcoming, and the breakfast was excellent. It was an intimate, peaceful stay filled with quiet charm.

Mont Avic – A Day of Hiking and High Views

The following morning, we drove to Mont Avic and began a hiking route starting in the village of Champorcher. The trail is relatively comfortable, though it includes a cumulative ascent of about 700 meters. The path winds through open alpine landscapes with sweeping views of the surrounding peaks.We reached Lago Muffè, a small, tranquil lake beside a mountain hut serving coffee and meals, the perfect resting point. From there, we continued climbing to Barbustel Hut, where overnight stays are also possible. Around the hut lie five small alpine lakes, and the scenery… there’s no better word for it — breathtaking.We returned the same way to the car, completing a total of 6–7 hours of hiking and reaching a maximum elevation of 2,300 meters. Exhausting, rewarding, unforgettable.

A practical note: restaurants in the area are not always readily available, and dinner reservations are highly recommended. One pleasant surprise was Lo Skiman Gontier in the village of Chardonney, which was consistently open and very enjoyable.

Castles, Gardens, and the Road to the Lake

The next day, we drove into another valley, smaller and more intimate. At its far end stands Castel Savoia, an impressive castle surrounded by a beautifully maintained botanical garden featuring plants from around the world, organized by geographic regions. Behind the castle, a forest trail invites further exploration. We walked a bit before continuing south toward Lake Como.

Palanzo – The Place We Didn’t Want to Leave

Lake Como itself didn’t fully capture my heart in the main town, so we quickly continued to our accommodation in Palanzo which is a medieval village perched high above the lake, halfway between Como and Bellagio. Here, time seemed to slow down. Stone alleyways, complete silence, and panoramic views spilling down toward the water below. We stayed at Cà Piodèe, a perfect retreat for those seeking peace. The room was impeccably clean, the view stunning, and the breakfast excellent. A small bar-restaurant serves the village, and most alleys are closed to cars. There is also a hiking trail from the village to the mountain’s edge (about a 1.5-hour ascent), which we sadly didn’t have time to do. I already know we’ll return.

Bellagio and Varenna – Beauty and Crowds

After our peaceful morning in Palanzo, we drove to Bellagio, arriving around 11:30 AM, just as the crowds peaked. Narrow lanes, endless staircases, shops, queues, and people everywhere. Beautiful, yes, but very busy.We took the ferry to Varenna, a tiny, picturesque town that was equally charming and crowded, with narrow alleys, many steps, and countless restaurants (some of which close in the afternoon). We returned by ferry to Bellagio, then drove to return the car and headed to Milan for our final night.

Milan – An Urban Farewell

In Milan, we stayed at the Leonardo Hotel in Chinatown. Slightly removed from the city center, which didn’t bother us. Breakfast was good, though the bathroom didn’t feel as clean as expected.Our final day was spent wandering around the magnificent Duomo, strolling through the elegant Brera district, and soaking in the city’s energy one last time before it was time to say goodbye.

Heading Home

Our return flight departed at 6:00 AM, so we stayed overnight at First Hotel Malpensa. It’s an excellent airport hotel for a short stay. There is no free airport shuttle, but the hotel transfer costs €10 and works smoothly, a comfortable, stress-free end to the journey.

And so our five-day journey came to an end; between mountains and lakes, between silence and crowds, between wild nature and vibrant cities. A reminder of why we set out to travel in the first place. Until next time.